Engagement Rings

  Wedding Bands

  Other Rings

  Bracelets

  Earrings

  Necklaces/Pendants

  Brooches/Pins

  Diamond Jewelry

  Emerald Jewelry

  Sapphire Jewelry

  Ruby Jewelry

  Gemstone Jewelry

  Pearl Jewelry

  Akoya Pearls

  Freshwater Pearls

  South Sea Pearls

  Tahitian Pearls

  Men's Jewelry

  Designer Jewelry

  Period Jewelry

  Georgian

  Victorian

  Art Nouveau

  Arts & Crafts

  Edwardian

  Art Deco

  Retro

  1950's

  1960's

  1970's

  1980's

  Contemporary: 1990's - Today

  Directory

  Jewelry Time Periods

  Gemstone Descriptions

  Care of Fine Jewelry

  Policies

  About the Owners

  Owner Biographies

  Professional Organizations

  Press

Period Jewelry

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Art Deco

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1918 – 1938   In the early days of the 20th century young artists in Paris, including Picasso, were experimenting with a new form of art which became known as cubism.  Objects were broken down into geometric forms and groups of color.  Some jewelers began to conceive designs using these ideas, but because of World War I, they could not proceed.  At the end of the war, women were hungry for a bold new look in fashion, jewelry and lifestyle.  As these new geometric and colorful designs began to appear, that new modern woman, welcomed this change.  Platinum was still the metal of choice for the finest jewelry, however, the newest white metal, white gold, was also appearing.  Designs were influenced by Asia, the middle East, Egypt and India, but many were abstract in their concept. The most common gemstones included diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires,  synthetic stones and jade.  In 1929 the American stock market crashed and the Great Depression began.  As a result many could no longer afford fine jewelry.  Design houses began using Hollywood actresses to show their jewelry in movies.  Designs were sleek and used few colored gemstones, diamonds being the stone of choice.  Only the wealthiest could afford this jewelry.  By the mid 1930’s, the rise of Hitler in Germany caused the availability of platinum in Europe to be curtailed.  Jewelry fashion turned again to a heavier look with yellow gold and colored stones from South America began to appear.  The Retro look was born.

Retro

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1938 - 1949   In 1938 Hitler’s army invaded Czechoslovakia.  The mood of Europe became very aggressive and many countries began building up their military.  European jewelry designers produced heavy masculine jewelry, with some themes revolving around war machinery and patriotic jewelry.  Wide bracelets, necklaces and rings in yellow and pink gold were popular.  Large sized gemstones such as amethysts, citrines, and aquamarines were used because fine diamonds, rubies and sapphires were not readily available.  The earlier pieces still showed some geometry, but as the ‘40’s wore on, a softer, more feminine look appeared with floral designs, ribbons and bows once again using smaller gemstones.  By the end of the decade white gold reappeared as did finer gemstones.

Fabulous 1950's

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1950 – 1959   After World War II; young men returned home to continue their educations, begin working again, married and started families. This decade heralded new prosperity which carried over to the jewelry industry.  Platinum was still relatively scarce, so both yellow and white gold were popular.  The earlier 50’s showed more jewelry in yellow gold, and themes were whimsical including animals, birds and flowers.  By the mid-50’s, other than engagement rings, white gold took off in popularity.  Prominent in these styles were the use of diamonds in very large cocktail rings, earrings, and brooches.  These were done as sprays, flowers and ribbons.  Only the wealthy could afford the diamond necklaces and bracelets set predominantly in platinum.  Famous designers of this time were Pierre Sterle, Jeanne Toussaint and Verdura.  As this decade ended, the attitudes of the young began to affect art and fashion in a radical way.

Psychedelic 1960's

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1960 – 1969   The decade turmoil with the Civil Rights Movement, Viet Nam War, the drug culture and the appearance of the Hippie, radicalized fashion and jewelry.  Jewelers like Andrew Grima of London and David Webb in New York City, introduced bold and avant garde designs primarily in yellow gold.   Designs were influenced by abstract art and the “dressed down” hippie culture.  Unusual designs were seen in the major jewelry houses such as Tiffany by Donald Claflin and Jean Schlumberger.  Large and chunky pieces of jewelry along with many containing peace symbols often incorporated unusual materials such as wood.  Ethnic jewelry incorporated Middle Eastern and African themes and used such metals as silver, brass, nickel and steel.

1970's

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This era was known for the rise of the studio jeweler and the influence of Middle Eastern oil money.  Buyers from this part of the world desired large fine quality diamonds, and jewelry of yellow gold.  Their near bottomless wallets allowed them to dominate the fine jewelry market in auction and jewelry houses worldwide.  Due to rigid etiquette and tradition, wearing such jewelry is an expected and accepted display of status and wealth present there even today.  Because of the oil embargo and poor economy, ostentatious display of wealth was no longer common in the United States and Europe.  As the decade ended and the economy improved, wearing more modest fine jewelry once again was acceptable. 

1980's

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This was the era of economic recovery and conspicuous consumption.  The cold war ended.  Women in business began power dressing and purchasing their own jewelry.  The YUPPIES – the young professionals were influenced by gold, glamour and glitz as exemplified by the TV shows, Dynasty and Dallas.  Popular Hip Hop musicians wore large pieces of jewelry consisting of gold, platinum and diamonds – BLING was born.   Princess Diana of Great Britain had a strong influence in jewelry as well.  She not only loved gemstone jewelry, but also pearls.   She wore earrings, chokers and strands, one of which was a strand of the “new” South Sea Pearls.  In the US, large pieces of costume jewelry had a resurgence of popularity, the most successful companies being Kenneth J. Lane and Avon.  David Yurman introduced his successful cable jewelry design, and serious jewelers, Harry Winston and Graff, supplied big diamonds. 

Contemporary: 1990's - Today

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